Above Shove the spackling into the nail holes. Below Make sure you leave a small mound of spackling over the hole. That way if the spackling shrinks as it dries, you won't be left with divit in your molding..jpg)
Above Remember this goofy corner?
Above This was the most difficult section of the installation.
Above Here is our scraf joint. The wall and ceiling were so wavy that fitting this joint was tough. The fit was almost perfect, but not quite. We'll have to do a little blending to make it perfect.
Above Here I've done some preliminary sanding. Note where the white primer has been sanded away--on the right side of the joint--that's the high side and will need to be sanded down more if we don't want that joint to show through the paint.
Above See how the primer has been sanded away on both sides of the joint? That means that section of the joint is blended perfectly and will not show after it's painted. Below Now the joint is blended perfectly..jpg)
Above and Below Now repeat the process again, but on these other joints..jpg)
.jpg)
Above This joint is getting closer to perfection.
Above and Below Using the primer to find out if the joint has been blended to perfection is a great technique to ensure invisible joints. .jpg)
Above Again, using the primer to indicate when the joint is blended works on all of the joints you'll use. Below The joint on this cornice needs quite a bit of blending..jpg)
Above and Below Now that the spackling is dry it's time to sand it smooth. This corner will need yet another coat of spackling before it's ready to prime.
Above Now that all of the holes have been spackled and sanded smooth, it's time to prime all of the moldings--yes, even the pre-primed moldings.
Above I just love using these little cut-in paint trays.
Above One coat of primer is sufficient, except for the places that were the original primer was sanded away, like on this cornise. One more coat on this spot will do the trick..jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
Above Remember how rough this looked before all of our preparation work. Now it will take a coat of paint and show no defects.
Above Remember we had about a 1/8" gap between the top of this cornice and the cockeyed ceiling? It's been filled and sanded smooth.
Above A bow in this wall creates a gap at the bottom of the crown molding. Below A little painter's caulk will take care of the gap..jpg)
Above After running the caulk into the gap, wipe with a slightly wet cloth.
Above And that's how your newly installed crown molding should look after you've prepared it for paint.
Above It's been a lot of work installing this crown molding. But now we're ready for a good coat of Benjamin Moore paint to complete the task.DIY (2) Installation
DIY (3) Flex Trim Installation
DIY (4) Preparation for Paint
DIY (3) Flex Trim Installation
DIY (4) Preparation for Paint
.jpg)
.jpg)





.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)


_640.png)

_640.jpg)

.jpg)
_640.jpg)
_cr640X480.jpg)
.jpg)
640x480.jpg)
_640.jpg)



